Hair Glossary

This is a brief glossary of terms that cover both general hair care terms and terms used in referring to nappy hair care.

Acids: In generally, acids have these characteristics: Acids usually taste sour when dissolved in water. Acids produce a stinging feeling when touched. Acids react aggressively and corrodes most metals. Acids are electrolytes, which means they conduct electricity. Strong or concentrated acids are dangerous. They cause severe burns from even minor contact and can be toxic.

Alkalis: In generally, alkalis have these characteristics: All alkalis have a pH larger than seven (7). Alkalis with a pH larger than ten (10) will turn phenolphthalein from colorless to pink. Phenolphthalein is a sensitive chemical that turns from colorless in acidic solutions and pink in basic solutions. Alkali solutions that are concentrated are caustic. This means they causes chemical burns. Alkaline solutions are slippery or soapy to the touch because they break down fatty acids on the skin surface. Most alkalis normally can be dissolved in water.

Alopecia: This is a common medical term for baldness. Traction alopecia is a form of alopecia, or gradual hair loss, typically caused by pulling the hair too tight for extended periods of time. Remember 'pulling the hair tight' when braiding will NOT make your hair grow!

Afro: A Rounded, Thick, Tightly Curled Hair Style.

Alopecia: Loss Of Hair, Especially Form The Head. Which Either Happens Naturally Or Is Caused By A Disease.

AlopeciaAreata : Alopecia Areata Is The Medical Term For Hair Loss Which Occurs In Patches On The Scalp.

AlopeciaFollicularis : Hair Loss Due To Inflammation Of Hair Follicles.

AlopeciaTotalis : Complete Hair Loss Of Scalp Hair Often Combined Wiht The Loss Of Eyebrows And Eyelashes

Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV): It serves as a gentle hair clarifier. This means that it gets rid of product residue build-up on your hair, leaving it soft and more shiny.

BAA (Big Ass Afro): A large afro created with longer hair that is blown out (hair dryer) or picked out.

Banding (Hair Banding): This is when you section your hair and place a holder the entire length of the section. You can use elastic ponytail holders covered in cloth, pieces of panty hose, etc.

Big Chop (BC) or The Big Chop (TBC): Cutting ALL of the relaxer out of your hair at ONE time.

Build-up (Product Build-up): This is the gunk and residue left by your hair products. Build-up keeps much needed moisture from penetrating your hair. Your hair will be dull, lifeless, and you will not get the results you desire. You can use a clarifying treatment like apple cider vingar to remedy this. Periodically clarifying your hair is a MUST.

Blow-out: Blow drying your hair straight or semi straight.

ClarifyingTreatment: This breaks down the residue left by your hair care products.

Combination Hair: Having many degrees or types of hair patterns on one head.

Conditioner: This is used to attact moisture, smooth the hair cuticles, and detangle.

Conditioner Wash: Cleansing your hair with conditioner instead of shampoo. This is also called the no poo method.

Creamy Crack: Relaxer, perms, texturizers, etc.

Curl Definition: When a curl has a distinctive form.

Cuticle: Outer layer of the hair. It is made up of flat scales.

Dandruff: Is the excessive flaking of dead skin that forms on your scalp.

Deep Conditioner: Promotes moisture in your hair often using your own body heat (plasic cap).

Density: The Number Of Hairs Per Square Inch.

Dilute: Thinning a substance by adding another substance.

Elasticity: Hair's Ability To Stretch Due To Natural Moisture Levels

Emollients: Substances which softens and traps moisture in your hair. Lanolin is an example of an emollient.

Fear of the 'Fro: This is self explanatory.

Fine Hair: A hair has a small circumference.

Fingercomb: Combing your hair with your fingers instead of a comb.

Finger-parting: Sectioning your hair with your fingers instead of a comb.

Follicles: The part of the skin that grows hair by packing old cells together.

Humectant: Substances that moisturizes your hair by drawing moisture from the air into your hair. An example of this would be Vegetable Glycerin which can be found in natural foods shop. Urea, lactic acid, and sorbitol are also humectants.

Hydrogen Peroxide: It is commonly used (in very low concentrations, typically around 5%) to bleach human hair, this is where the term peroxide blonde and bottle blonde comes in.

Hydrolyzed Protein: See Reconstructors.

Keratin: A protein that makes up 97% of your hair.

Leave-in Conditioner: A thinner and lighter conditioner that is not washed out. This type of conditioner is used keep hair moisturized for extended periods of time.

Low-Poo (or Lo Poo): Washing your hair with a conditioner more often than washing with shampoo.

No-Poo (or No Shampoo method): Washing your hair only with conditioner and not shampoo.

Oily Hair: A result of over production of sebum. Sebum is your scalp's natural oil.

Panthenol (Pro-vitamin B5): Panthenol is a humectant, emollient, and moisturizer that actually penetrates your hair shaft. It is offen used in shampoos and hair conditioners, typically in a concentration of 0.1 - 1%. It coats and seals the surface of your hair, lubricates your follicles, and makes hair look shiny. Other names for panthenol are: D-Panthenol, Dexpanthenol (DCIR), Dexpanthenolum, Propanolamine, N-pantoyl, d-Pantothenyl alcohol.

Papilla: The root of the hair where new hair cells are formed.

Pomade: Pomades are used to add shine, definition, and frizz control. Use only a small amount to avoid greasiness.

Porosity: Your hair's ability to absorb moisture. This is determined by how much the hair cuticles, or hair scales, are raise. Low porosity, normal porosity, and high porosity are the typical categories.

Tip: You can determine the porosity of your hair by taking a lock of hair and let it float in water for approximately two minutes. If it sinks, your hair has high porosity.

Product Junkie: Having waaayyyy to many hair products. Product Junkism is common during and after transitioning to your napptural hair. Do be cautioned, however, that you do not want to fall into the trap of spending excessive amounts of money on products. This is what you got away from when you left the creamy crack, remember?

ProtectiveHairstyles: Styles that do not require a lot of maintenance, combing, or upkeep. For example, a bun, which protects the ends of your hair.

Puff: Pulling your 'fro back into a semi ponytail with a bra strap or cloth head band.

ReconstructorTreatment: These usually contain hydrolyzed protein. Their job is to penetrate your hair and strengthen its structure.

ScabHair: The last of the relaxed hair that is left after transitioning and sometimes left unintentionally after the big chop.

Sebum: Sebum is the scalp's natural oil. It moistens and protect the hair and scalp. You must be aware that sebum has a harder time getting to the ends of your hair if your hair is curly as opposed to straight.

Shaft (or Hair Shaft): The entire length of the hair.

Shrinkage: This is when the hair 'draws up.' In other words, this is the difference between the length of your hair when you pull it as oppose to the length in APPEARS to be when you let it go.

Slip: A result of using a detangler. It causes your hair to be slippery, which aids in detangling.

Smoothing: Reduces Frizz Or Unruly Hair For A Sleek Finish.

Split Ends: The thinning of the ends of your hair. The ONLY solution to split ends is to CUT THEM OFF!

Straightening: Refers To A Styling Method Of Removing Curls Or Waves.

Styling Gel: This is heavier and is used to sculpt the hair into the desired style.

Styling Lotion: This is lightweight and used to set the hair in the desired style.

Texture: This Refers To A Visual "Looseness," Of The Pattern Of The Hair. Hair Is Either Classified As Either Fine, Medium, Or Coarse.

Texturizer: A relaxer that loosen your coils, but does not make the hair straight. They permanently destroy the bonds of the hair. Despite clever marketing, these are a no-no if you want to be napptural.

Thioglycolate: The chemical that breaks down your hair when your are getting a relaxer.

Transitioner: This is a person who is 'growing their relaxer out' in an effort to go total napptural.

Transitioning: This the process of caring for your relaxed hair as well as your napptural hair while 'growing your relaxer out.'

TWA (or Teen Weeny Afro): A short afro. This style is very popular after the big chop.

Volume: The Level Of Fullness With The Finished Look.